my AC seems to be dead, troubleshooting options?

[Mr. Flibble]

My AC was weak from the day I got my Deli, and I thought it was just low on charge. At the CC Auto get together, Glen asked me if the compressor was going, and I said yes. However, I now believe I was wrong.

This is the first vehicle I have ever owned with AC, so I am not too familar with fixing it. Although, I have had many a rental car in Phoenix, so I know the value of good AC!

I found a charge kit down here in Seattle (sorry I can't grab the adapter off you Loki, being down here!) And I hooked it up according to the directions. It read 65 PSI, and was in the red/yellow part of the guage, indicating a AC problem. I did not try to charge it of course!

So, are my next steps an expensive AC repair job?

[TardisDeli]

Hello Mr.Flibble, well one bit of good news is that your van will have the current size of fittings for AC (my 1991 has the old style, so if I wanted my system recharged then first I would have to get the new size fittings installed). I heard rumor that good old R-12 coolant gas is still avail in USA, but we only get the R134 new wimpy environmentally friendly stuff.

You can buy cans of the new stuff at Canadian Tire, RED TEK A/C Refrigerant Recharge Kit, and just recharge your system with little spray can kinda like a can of spray paint with a piece of hose to screw into your fitting (as long as you're sure your pressurized ac system isnt leaking as that would just be a waste of money) for $54.99 which is the regular price (it was on sale in the spring). The website says: A direct replacement and retrofit option for R134a and R12 refrigerants for automotive air conditioning systems; Offers a freon replacement that runs cooler and more efficiently, without depleting ozone; No license or retrofitting required for use; Carries EcoSafe certification (non ozone depleting); Includes everything needed to properly charge air conditioning systems: two cans of 12a refrigerant, installation hose kit with colour coded gauge, air conditioning oil, low side service fitting and service decal.

Jay Tardis just got his chevy AC fixed, and first they charged $75 merely for the analysis. Then replaced his condenser (it got a hole in it because the design of the vehicle meant the condenser rubbed against some metal structural beam, and wore a hole into his condenser and all the ac gas oozed away).

Good Luck, Christine.

[Modsqwad]

Hey there:
Look behind your glove box at the fuses back there. The three on the left should be for the AC and one of the three is for
the compressor clutch. If its blown you will have no AC. The pressures in the system need to be taken with a running compressor
so the numbers you have may not be applicable. Look in the search section as there is lots of good info on this subject. Good luck.
Andy

[chris]

There are several pages on troubleshooting in the shop manual. The fuse is the first thing to check. Here is a basic check for refreigerant level if you can get the compressor to work.

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But now that it's cold and dark in Victoria...!

[Mr. Flibble]

Thanks guys! Do you know where I can look for the fuses for the AC in the L400? I looked behind the passenger glove box and saw nothing - then I checked under the hood and on the drivers side and did not see them. It appears my compressor is not running at all.

[jessef]

The posts above are referring to an L300.

Your L400 stuff is in a different location.

Main fuse box is above the air box on the left when you open the hood.

AC compressor fuse is in there.

English diagram is somewhere on this site. Not sure where.

[Mr. Flibble]

The posts above are referring to an L300.

Your L400 stuff is in a different location.

Main fuse box is above the air box on the left when you open the hood.

AC compressor fuse is in there.

English diagram is somewhere on this site. Not sure where.

Thanks Jesse! I found the fuse location. Unfortunately it is not blown, so that means something is more seriously wrong with my compressor.

[tonydca]

Never tried to troubleshoot an AC compressor, but assuming it runs 12 V like everything else, you could try jumpering directly from the (+) side of the battery to the compressor to see if it will run at all or if it has seized up. If you can get it to turn over, see if it blows cold.

[MardyDelica]

hi, you have to put full freon on it before you know.
i have seen many L400 ac compressor giving up. as per the ages & over use in japan as the weather in japan is hotter:
i am looking into this as this might be another problem for this L400. i guess the Ac compressor is one of them to look into this.
putting it together later to a new compressor on this.
will update thsi later
cheers;
mardy

[Mr. Flibble]

Thanks Mardy. I tested the pressure, and it was reading high when I checked it. I had extra coolant to put into the low side, but the reading was suggesting that I not do that. I had the AC on full, both front and rear and let the engine idle for some time with the pressure tester attached, and the gauge needle never moved. I never heard the compressor cycle either. Of course, I admit I don't know what it sounds like...

When the AC is on full, it will start to blow slightly cooler than ambient air out the vents. That is, if it is 30 degrees Celsius out it probably blows about 25 C. If it is 20 out, it can do about 17 C. However, even after long drives of 2 hours or so, it never blows significantly cold air out like any other AC enabled vehicles I have driven.

[thelazygreenfox]

Mr. Flibble
Your AC system needs fuses, operating fan(s), a good ac dash switch, adequate system pressure and functioning lo and hi pressure switches. Wiring and connections link all the controls.

Any system pressure leak will drop the pressure and the lo pressure switch will stop current flow to the compressor clutch. Too high system pressure will cause the hi pressure switch to stop current flow to the compressor clutch. Unless someone has previously overfilled the system the Hi pressure switch shouldn't be a problem.

System leaks usually show as an oil stain at connections or at the compressor. Dirt collects on the leaking oil and gives away the problem source. Leaks aren't always easy to find and 15 yrs is enough time for refridgerant pressure to drop.

That's fine for all the paper theory!

Air temp at the vents should be 10 Deg F. lower than ambient if the system is operating. If the compressor clutch isn't kicking in a problem exists in one of the above components.

Jumper the power wire to the compressor clutch (direct from the + terminal) to verify the compressor isn't seized. If the compressor turns (probably!) the system only needs recharged. Dura cool and other modern refridgerants are compatable with your refridgerant. Buy 6 cans for a complete recharge. Lo and Hi side connectors must be changed. Lo side to recharge and hi side to evacuate.

A vac pump and extra knowledge is needed to evacuate if the refridgerant leaks out after you refill it. Fill 3 cans and look for a air vent temp drop. Add refridgerant till the temp stabilizes at approx 10 deg F less than ambient.

Too complicated? then go to shop and they will fix it. No guarantee that you have stopped the refridgerant leak. Next month/year you may need to refill the system again.. You are only saving the cost of labour.

A/C systems are complicated and good technicians worthy of their shop rate.

Don't use any leak stop compounds. They coat and gum up all the interior of your system and may require replacement of your entire a/c system in a shop!!

Good Luck
Wayne
TLGF

[thelazygreenfox]

guys
I hope this gets moved to L400 technical. Anyone??
thanks
Wayne
TLGF

[FalcoColumbarius]

Good point, Fox.

Falco.

[mac_stang]

red tek has a great sealer/stop leak, and most compressers will not engage when FULLY depleated refridgerant levels are present.

It saved me a $500 compres swap about 8 yrs ago.
Red tek sells a kit with sealer, refridgerant and a hose/fitting adapter-easy to use.

[stonefly]

Just a question about the fuses for the compressor. I'm not familiar with the square black fuses found where the compressor, front condensor fan, rear condensor fan, headlamp are. They are 4 black boxes. How do you know if that style of fuse is shot? I pop one out and it simply is copper wire wrapped. How can I tell if these are good/not?
TIA - just used to the blade plug ins.