when i rebuilt the one in the L300, the shop dropped the engine/tranny/tcase out the bottom, set it on a cart and removed the tranny and accessories at that time. clean and easier than through the cab.
always think of how it was assembled and work backwards...
crushers wrote:when i rebuilt the one in the L300, the shop dropped the engine/tranny/tcase out the bottom, set it on a cart and removed the tranny and accessories at that time. clean and easier than through the cab.
always think of how it was assembled and work backwards...
I have a feeling the Russek manual actually suggests this, I'll take a look in a while. I think the liming factor for the home mechanic is that engines are very tall, so to get it out from under a delica means lifting it very high, as opposed to an engine crane which is a viable tool for the home mechanic and will get it out through the cab. I once helped get a beetle engine out this way, and it was surprising how much we had to lift the back end of the car to get a flat 4 out under it.
true, but if you factor in the ground clearance, dropping the subframe with the engine I believe probably does not require raising the front of the vehicle to extremes - the case of the bug, that sump is pretty close to the ground which is why bugs need that life -not familar with the Russek manual? Thanks again -new deli to be owner here -
snelson wrote:If you're serious about trying this I would first stop in and chat with Mardy when he's back or the guys at CVI. A quick chat and a couple coffee's could go a long way....
I actually spoke with CC Autos mechanics about this. L300 is way easier than L400. Their comment was that its easier than you'd think...
Take the door off, it comes out the passenger side with a hoist. If I did it I would strip most of the cab down first.
without a car hoist I would not go out the bottom. You would need to lift the Delica so high to get the motor out. Need to lift the delica with no front wheels attached. Need to lower 1500lbs+ of engine, transmission, etc!!!!
Why would the front wheels need to come off? The engine is located just behind the front axle. As a painter looking at this situation I would disconnect the propeller shaft; remove the transfer case; remove the tranny; then remove the engine if I wanted to drop it out of the bottom ~ but this is mere conjecture, a supposition of hypothesis. Personally.... I would go to the guys at CVI (CC Autos or other famous Delica Canada mechanics) who take these engines out often and ask them how they did it.
Falco.
Sent from my smart pad, using a pen.
Seek Beauty... Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi
...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb
I just looked tonight they don't. I thought you had to pull the front cross member that the axle is on. My bad. The engine mount is on its own cross member.
Cool. I know the member you are talking about, although I have no clue what it's attached to (the frame?) ~ I really ought to look ~ glad you brought this up. I only know about the actual engine placement because I got into an argument with someone or two about the L300 Delica centre of displacement. Also, I have found that when I am tinkering and I drop a tool I eventually realised that it kept falling on the axle, under the clutch fan ~ I'm a bit of a slow learner at times ~ but I'm getting there.
Falco.
Sent from my smart pad, using a pen.
Seek Beauty... Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi
...... Vision without action is a daydream. Action without vision is a nightmare. ~ Japanese Proverb
hi there, funny you should ask, i've just finished doing transplant on mine and i'm no mechanic though have done couple simple swaps before.
At first it looks a bit daunting, but once you start, and work methodicaly its pretty straight forward.
1. get everything you need for the swap, the new engine, arm type engine houst, all belts, crank seals if needed, filters, usual tools, flat smooth suface to move the houst around on, lots of cigorettes and a kettle!!!
2. remove seats, drivers seat plate, bonnet, passenger door (door is heavy so houst helps hear) and radiator.
3. intake manifold is different, turbo was still fitted on new engine and was good so i left it on, undo exauhst take off fan, then removed pas pump, and alternator
4. undo and remove the 4 bell housing bolts, plus the 6 bolts atching the flywheel to the torque converter (u have to remove inspection plate to get at theys), the starter motor an few other bolts that hold inspection plate and other bits and bobs on, have a good look around for any wires still attached
5. get houst in position, undo mounting's from the chasis (alot easier than taking them off from the engine)
6. make shaw the engine houst is as low as pos. to the engine when you strap it up so its easyer to get out the door. you'll need a mate to help get the engine out as its a bit of a faff but not to bad.
7. swap the pump, flywheel (if needed), front pully (again if needed), while engine is out, don't do fly and pully though untill you have timed everything up with belts on.
8. put every thing back in again reversing prosess.
Not to bad a job really, took about 5 shortish days, didn't want to rush anything. you get to know alot about a your truck while you at it. any questions about anything just ask and i'll try and answer it best i can remember.
All the vans I have ever changed a motor in (and there have been a few) have come out through either the passenger side door or the
sliding side door (with a longer armed hoist). Bigger motors than what we have in our delicas too. Its not too bad if you have some help
to keep it from swinging around. Taking it out the bottom without a hoist would be difficult. Don't forget the motor would be sitting on a tranny jack or something and be that much higher to clear the bottom of the van. When you do it post some photo's so we can all plan
our own motor swaps.
Andy
The only engines I've had to pull from under the vehicles have been VW buses and toyota Previas. Did it once with a Toyota LE van once and thereafter thru the door.
The Delicas are easiest thru the door.
Trying to do it from underneath without a hoist would be very difficult and unless you could safely support it that high up, very dangerous as well.
Go thru the door, no need for a hoist, just jack stands and an engine hoist with a very tight chain to reduce the distance from oil pan to top of hoist and squeeze it thru the door.
Good Ship Miss Lil' Bitchi